We got up early for our (6:30) ride to Hito Cajón, the Chilean side of the border to present our papers to cross the border. The office does not open until 8:00 but the early departure meant that we would be among the first vans there. Behind us, there were about a dozen other vans, many filled with passengers, while we were the only ones on ours.
This checkpoint is at 4,900 meters of altitude, over 14,000 feet. It is above the tree line, if there were any trees. However, we saw a lost seagull who must live off of the remains of food left by visitors. We got through the Chile side of the border quickly and had to drive to the Bolivia side, about a kilometer. There is a paved road that is in such disrepair, the vans make “alternate” roads on the sand. And, not one, but many “roads.”
We got to the Bolivia immigration building with all of our paperwork and multiple copies of each. It wasn’t too bad, so far. However, the official asked us if we have verification of a yellow fever vaccine. This is only required if we were going to the northern part of Bolivia, into the jungle. When we said no, he said we could get by with a payment of $10. It was the typical shakedown. Oh, and the visa application was $160 US per person!
Now, off to another office to get the actual visa. Jhenny and our driver, Abrahen, were great. You can only get it by scanning a QR code with their WiFi. We got the internet connection but the code would not work, having tried numerous times. Fortunately, our guide was able to get it done for us.
Our first stop was to see the Bolivian side of the big volcano, Licancabur. Now, we were off to see the many lagoons fed from underground springs but maintain their unusual color due to the minerals in the water. The first lagoon was white from the prevalence of borax. It didn’t keep the many flamingos from enjoying the water. They are smaller than the ones we have seen before in the US or in zoos, coral with black wings. It is amazing that they survive at this altitude. The volcano is at 5,930 km or almost 19,5,000 ft above sea level. At the base, we were at almost 16,000 ft.
The next lagoon has green water from the concentration of lead, calcium, and sulfu carbonates. The surrounding mountains are spectacular and warranted taking many pictures. We stopped at the crater of a volcano that had many geysers emitting steam. Most of the volcanos here haven’t been active for 40,000 years, but this could have been the day!We next drove to more photo ops on the dirt roads. The final lagoon was red and filled with more flamingos. We learned that in the spring, flamingos mate, build a cone about 18″ high and the egg is set at the top. Then, the parents leave, never to return to the egg. Once the egg hatches, the “nannies” take over and teach the baby how to find food, water, and fly. Isn’t this child abuse?? And the circle of life goes on.
Finally, after what seemed like hours on dusty, washboard roads, we were taken to what we thought would be our hotel. As it turned out, it was a hostel in the middle of nowhere, a tiny room with no hot water and one plug in the room. It was unacceptable and we told the tour manager (who is from Bolivia but lives in Germany and works with local agents) immediately. There seemed to be some miscommunication about the accommodations but fortunately, we were moved to a hotel not far away that was supposed very nice. And, it was.
Tomorrow, we venture to Uyuni (pronounced uni), a town that is filled with hostels and hundreds of travel agencies to provide tours for the backpackers and adventure travelers. They will be taking the route back toward Chile where we were for the past few days. We are happy that we are beyond that part of the trip. Jim has been feeling effects from the altitude. A little dizziness, weakness, difficulty sleeping, and a malaise. I am okay but probably if I analyze how I am doing, I am probably having similar issues. It will be good to get closer to sea level soon.
We drove for a long time, both on paved roads and on dirt roads. However, even the paved roads left something to be desired.
K