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We got up early for our pickup to the airport. I know that there must be some private homes somewhere in the BA area but so far all we have seen is high-rise apartment/condo buildings, even on the way to the airport.

We have a nine-hour flight to Mexico City and a three-and-a-half hour layover before departing to Guadalajara. We love going away and but always look forward to getting home, seeing our puppy and enjoying our house.

The Duty-Free store has a fabulous tuk-tuk that I would love to have in Ajijic. Of course, it is designed by Dolce & Gabbana!

On our flight, we reviewed the highlights and lower lights of the trip. First of all, we were the only ones on this tour. That was unexpected. This trip to the South America Wine Triangle was unique, providing us with an opportunity to see some fabulous wineries, enjoy different foods, and experience cultures that we did not know previously.

Our first destination, Santiago, Chile, was a very special city. Close to the Maipo Valley wineries, we tasted some incredible wines that we have enjoyed or will now enjoy in Ajijic. Flying to Calama and then driving to the beginning of the Atacama Dessert provided some interesting scenery. The town of San Pedro de Atacama was kind of a throwback to the 60’s when everyone was looking for an adventure. in hiking garb.

Crossing the border from Chile to Bolivia was daunting and expensive. However, our new guide and driver were waiting for us and provided some much-needed assistance getting through the paperwork. What we didn’t expect was a four-hour drive on terrible sand/dirt roads to get to our first destination. The dessert is unforgiving and we were reaching higher and higher altitudes. We started at 3,800 meters (almost 12,500 feet) and went up from there.

We saw lots of animals, lagoons, and mountains. It was a unique experience. Going to the Salt Flats was something we could never have imagined. Driving another four hours on narrow dirt roads, looking at rock slides on one side and deep valleys on the other side was horrible. We cannot lie! Finally arriving in Tarija was good, though. We stayed in a beautiful hotel and enjoyed the wineries and other things the area had to offer.

Finally, we were looking forward to going to the border with Argentina. However, we had yet another four-hour drive on red dirt washboard roads that hung on the side of very high mountains (up to almost 5,000 meters, 16,000 feet) with more hairpin turns to get to the border. With the positive aspects of Bolivia, the three long drives on scary roads was something we could have missed. Hello, Argentina!

Our driver in Argentina was a kick. We enjoyed the small towns but found Salta and Mendoza great. The wineries at Maipu were especially good. Our day trip to Calafate was a bust. We asked for this side trip but we could have missed it easily. In the end, Buenos Aires was as fascinating as we thought it would be. We will not be returning to South American any time soon, so we made the most of this tour. If anyone wants more specifics, do not hesitate to contact us.

Our next “not yet finalized” trip will be in May/June to Italy. We have both been there many times but we are going to see parts of the country we missed and will be spending a week in a villa at a class, planning, shopping, and cooking all our meals. We will also have a quick trip to another destination in the middle that I have wanted to visit. We will reveal the details once we make the final decisions.

I hope that you have enjoyed hearing about our travels. I really do this to remind us where we have been and what we saw. You know that we “old people” don’t remember what we ate for breakfast, let alone where we were for almost three weeks. Thanks for supporting us!

For our last full day here, we decided to explore our neighborhood. We finally found a breakfast place that actually includes eggs, which was not easy to find, since the typical breakfast here is a pastry and coffee. We even shared an eggs Benedict dish!

The trees were shedding a yellow flower, creating a carpet along the sidewalk. It was quite magical. We saw lots of people walking their dogs, as usual, and enjoyed the architecture along the way.

In the afternoon, we stopped by a beautiful hotel for a drink, was also recommended by our friend in Ajijic. The lobby bar was exquisite, filled with well-heeled customers. However, we opted to leave as the prices were jaw-dropping for a drink.

We were off to another part of town and ultimately, it was time for an early dinner. We found a wonderful Italian restaurant about five blocks away and had a meal we will remember. Although the plate doesn’t look very appetizing, believe me when I say that the flavors of the fish, vegetable terrine, and mashed sweet potatoes were divine!

Our trip is over, except for the part about flying home. It is hard to believe that this is our last day in Buenos Aires. We have an early flight to Mexico City (nine hours) and then on to Guadalajara. Finishing this blog has been a labor of love. I plan on finding a different platform for future travel blogs, one that allows videos. Any suggestions would be great.

The last entry will be the final takeaway from this trip… what we liked and what we could have missed. Fortunately, there isn’t much we did not like. Stay tuned and thanks for enjoying our travels.

We had some time to go to a walking street in the downtown area. Calle (Caje) Florida is filled with great shops and restaurant. Of course, there were many tourists but also locals wandering the many blocks. So far, we haven’t purchased anything on this trip. I usually like to buy something that I can wear or use as a reminder of our trip. The sweaters and shawls in Bolivia were soft and beautiful but definitely would not fit into a carryon bag. And, wearing it would have not worked since the temps were very comfortable in this late spring weather. So, seeing a really pretty lightweight shawl was the best choice and Jim was happy to buy it for me for my birthday a few days ago. It will be perfect in Ajijic.

After lunch, we went to the El Ateneo Bookstore in Recoleta. This famous landmark is visited by zillions of tourists annually because it is in a former theater with many balconies and a ceiling that is amazing. You don’t know where to look first and there even is an English-language section, although small. In the back is a cafe where the stage was. The size and scope of the bookstore is especially grand. We visited an amazing bookstore in Porto, Portugal, very different but certainly nothing like this.

For dinner tonight, we went to a very popular pizza restaurant recommended by a friend in Ajijic who lived in Buenos Aires for many years. She said that we had to order the fugazza pizza. It is a crispy crust with tons of mozzarella and caramelized onions. No red sauce or other ingredients. We could see many others ordering this, too and we loved it. Two pieces was more than enough for the two of us. The restaurant was packed and the walls covered with all kinds of sports memorabilia. It is definitely a local favorite and we concur.

It has been a busy day, with only one more until we depart. We are stuffed and ready to get back to the apartment.

Today, we were picked up to see the city. We were joined by ten others from several countries including one couple from the US. Our guide was bi-lingual and very knowledgeable. Our first stop was at Plaza de Mayo (pronounced Majo). This is where the Pink House (like the US White House) is located and where the government conducts its business. FYI, the pink color comes from animal blood mixed into the stucco. The Plaza is very large, surrounded by impressive buildings, several statues and beautiful garden filled with flowers.

One of the statues has become the repository of memorabilia from families to commemorate those who have lost loved ones during COVID. This occurred spontaneously and now has become fenced-in for visitors to ponder their own losses during that time. There were Flamenco dancers offering to have their picture taken with you. It was all most impressive.

We next went to a church on the Plaza that looked like a government building. It is the church where Pope Frances held mass. As undistinguished as the outside was, the inside was spectacular.

From Plaza de Mayo, we went to a very popular area what has a lot of charm. San Telmo was originally a destination for mainly Italian immigrants. In some of the now colorful houses whole families would live in one room, sharing a kitchen and a bathroom with other families. Sometimes, this could be a lot of people but it worked at the time. Although some people still live there, most of the houses have become retail/restaurant spaces.

During our short time in Buenos Aires so far, we saw many, many people wearing black and white striped jerseys. They all looked like umpires. We saw them everywhere, in Recoleta, Plaza de Mayo, and San Telmo. So, we finally had to ask what gives? It turns out that two rival futbol (soccer) teams from Brazil (yes, Brazil) were vying for a championship and it seems that there is no stadium large enough to handle all the fans. They came, en masse, to Buenos Aires and strangely, each team has the same jerseys. So, how do you tell the fans/teams apart? You look on the jersey for the shield on their left side of the chest. If there is a star on the shield, that signifies one of the teams, while a star ABOVE the shield is the other team!

At the drop of a hat, whether on the steet or in a restaurant, fans of their favorite team break into a cheer or a song about their team. We got a real kick out of their enthusiasm.

A very popular drink in Argentina is mate. It is a loose organic tea in many flavors that is enjoyed in a special cup with a special straw. The straw is metal with a filter on the bottom. In many places, we saw people drinking this tea. The cups and straws can be up to $35 US but there are probably less expensive options.

It was now time to visit the Recoleta Cemetery. This is no ordinary cemetery. The mausoleums are beyond anyone’s expectations. Eva Perone is buried here, although hers is not the fanciest. You can spend hours and hours wandering around seeing the incredible buildings constructed as a monument enclosing the burial chamber of the deceased of the very wealthy of Buenos Aires. Supposedly, there is more space to add more mausoleums but you had better have beaucoup bucks! These are just some of the unique buildings in the cemetery.

We went to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Of course, there were lots of futbol fans there, sharing their enthusiasm. We had a delicious typical Argentinian beef meal. No Flamenco show or horse show for us.
We have seen them before in other countries. Time to relax for the rest of the day.

Today, we had a quiet morning until our flight to Buenos Aires for some special days on our own, that is, no tour. We had breakfast, as long as you like media lunas (croissant shaped bread rolls), strong coffee, and maybe some ham and cheese! We bid farewell to Mendoza and headed to the airport for the short hour-and-a-half flight. We saw snow-covered peaks from the plane and were ready to begin this part of our journey in South America.

We were picked up by a driver and taken to the apartment we rented for the short visit. This VRBO pied-a-terre was well-located in Recoleta, one of the more upscale neighborhoods. The tiny studio, about 30 square meters (323 sq. ft) had a kitchenette, an adequate bathroom (except for no place to put our toiletries, other than in the bidet!), and a small balcony to enjoy the city view.

Time to relax and find someplace for a light dinner. The area is populated with at least three coffee shops on each side of every block. You can’t miss them. We also noticed that many people were walking dogs. Not unlike other large cities, people live in high-rise apartment buildings but also choose to have a pet. For those who were not inclined to walk their dog, they hired dog walkers, some of whom were sheparding as many as 20 dogs at a time! It was quite a scene.

One of the first things you notice is the beautiful architecture. Known as the “Paris of South America,” the French influence in the design of the buildings is everywhere. If you had a corner apartment in one of these buildings, I imagine that you are blessed with a wonderful view.

We were ready to relax for the evening. Tomorrow, we go on a city tour to get the lay of the land. Until then…

We were looking forward to this day in Mendoza. We started with a city tour to get a better feel for the city. We saw tile painting of the founding of Mendoza, the remains of the oldest church in the city, and a beautiful park with a man-made lake that can only be used by the members of the rowing club located on the lake.

Time to go to the wineries for our tastings. Our first stop was Maison Alta Vista, a winery that has a variety of Malbec wines grown in different terroir (earth). They indicate that there is a significant difference in the grapes grown in different areas of the Maipu Valley, creating a unique flavor. We tasted a variety of wines to determine if we could see how the earth changes the flavor. They also had a sparkling wine and several wines that were a mix of grapes. The grounds are beautiful, too.

Next, we went to the Trivento Winery. Tte grounds of this winery are absolutely beautiful. As you walk into the building, you see two large paintings of women drinking wine. I thought of a local painter friend who could create something similar easily, maybe for a local restaurant?

There are displays of their wines and in-depth discussions about the wines they offer. We tasted a couple of unique wines – a white Malbec and a rose Malbec. Nowhere else did we see these wines. The flavor was amazing. We would have liked to bring some back home but it was not possible.

Yesterday (December 6), while in Walmart, I looked at the huge wine selection available, probably set up for the upcoming holidays. And, right in the front were the Trivento wines we liked – the white and rose Malbec. And, they were on sale for $209 pesos! We now have a nice collection of these two, as they will probably disappear after the holidays!

We next went to another bodega that specializes in unique virgin olive oils and balsamic vinegars.

After the tasting, we were treated to a delicious lunch. We had amazing empanadas with a dipping sauce and a choice of two entrees. I had eggplant and hummus, while Jim had meat that was very tender and veggies. I didn’t get a picture of his meal, unfortunately, because it disappeared too quickly! As you can see I ate first and photographed after!

Time to head back to Mendoza to savor the day and the incredible wines. When we arrived, we passed by an official building that had a ceremony of uniformed soldiers dressed like those from 100 years ago. They played trumpets and drums, walked in synchrony, viewed by students on the steps of the building. Our guide saw this ceremony for the first time in her life, so it was a very special opportunity for us.

It was a full day, very enjoyable. Tomorrow, we leave Mendoza and our tour. Next, we fly to Buenos Aires on our own to explore this amazing city.

We are finally going to the epicenter of wine in Mendoza. We had a morning flight for the one and a half hour trip. You can see the snow-capped Andes as we fly south.

Once we checked in, we had the afternoon to ourselves. Our hotel was perfectly located, so it was easy to walk around. The room was quite compact. We wonder where people put their luggage to unpack because with our two carryon bags and two personal items, we were very cramped. We found this situation at most of the hotels.

Jim was here about 14 years ago and it seemed like a one-horse town then. Not now! It is charming, bustling, filled with parks and plazas. Walking around was a pleasure.

There is a long pedestrian street (Calle Sarmiento) where you can shop, eat, and definitely people-watch. We needed some Argentine pesos, so we meandered a block or two away and were approached by someone who said “cambio.” That means, do you want to exchange dollars for pesos? Normally, one would be a skeptic to do this on the street but this is the way of life for visitors. However, you have to know beforehand that they really want new $100 US bills to exchange. We were able to get them at our bank in Ajijic, since we were made aware by many before we left.

You follow a strange man and go into an inside mall selling and buying gold to an office that handles the transaction. The Argentinian peso was around $1,000 to $1.00 US. If you aren’t firm, you will get pesos in $100 or $200 denominations, which means that you need a suitcase to carry your cash. We asked, and got, pesos in at least $10,000 notes. You feel like a millionaire for only a minute, as an ice cream cone is almost $5,000 pesos and a meal about $20,000 pesos. Using the ATM doesn’t give you a good exchange (we got between $1,050-1,090 to the dollar). If you use a credit card anywhere, you get hit with a fee of about 20% or more. Cash is your friend.

We decided to have dinner on the pedestrian mall and shared a beef meal, finally. One thing they offered was chorizo, which you would think was a sausage. But no, it is a cut of beef, kind of like a New York strip. We kept that in mind for another meal.

It was a long day, so off to bed… Tomorrow, a city tour and then to the Maipu Valley for our wine tastings!

Since we were the only people on this tour, they modified the itinerary so that we could visit Cafayete, a few hours away, but promising to be an interesting drive and town. Somehow, our hotel in Salta knew that today was my birthday, so with our breakfast, they brought a little cake made of alfajores (the traditional Argentinian cookies) with a candle. It was very sweet.

We left Salta for the Lerma Valley, which includes many gorges and natural rock formations. We were a full van of 14, with visitors from many countries. We saw the La Garganta del Diablo (the Devil’s Throat) and El Anfiteatro (The Amphitheatre), both of which were spectacular in their size and color. The Amphitheatre has the most amazing acoustics that resonate within the entire inside. I am not sure if they host musical events, but there was a musician sitting on a rock inside playing a guitar and you could hear every word and note!

Before having lunch, we visited a small winery, owned by a couple of generations of a family. The son recently returned from three months in Italy to gain more knowledge. He already looked very Italian, which wasn’t a bad thing! We tasted the wines, but did not find anything we especially liked. They served empanadas, which were tasty, so the visit wasn’t entirely wasted.

We then had lunch on the main square and decided that this was the time to sample the local delicacy of llama. It wasn’t bad. It could have been any meat, though. Otherwise, there wasn’t much to see in the town. As we departed, we were taken to another winery that we hoped had some delicious wine. In actuality, this stop was unplanned because our van had a flat tire and the driver had to change the tire. In addition to making wine, they also made fine olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Time to head back to Salta. Within a half an hour, a deluge of rain hit the road we were on. Water rose to at least the middle of our tires, with streams of water (like arroyos) entering our road from the towns we passed. We were stopped twice, waiting to find out the status of traversing the high water. In one case, a small sedan was stuck with water up to their doors and a band of helpers pushed the car out of the way. The second time, a tractor-trailer was caught and another one attempted to tow it out of the water. We waited for about an hour and a half, as the rain continued.

We arrived in Salta two and a half hours late, tired and ready to depart for our flight tomorrow to Mendoza.

Salta is a beautiful colonial city. It is very spread out, with the pre-Andes and snow-capped Andes in the background. We had a guide for a tour of the city. The largest close-in mountain has a ski lift to get to the top, or you can drive up easily. From this vantage point, you can see the soccer stadiums and the important buildings of the city. From here, we went to many areas to get a feel for the city.

When we got back to town, we went to a recommended restaurant for a delicious lamb casuela (stew), a wonderful glass of wine, all in the shadow of the tallest church tower in town.

We walked around the squares and peeked into the main church, which was totally full . The inside was stunning.

One area we visited was San Lorenzo, an area just outside of town, with a very different topography and weather. This part of the city offers gated communities, beautiful, large homes where the wealthy live and commute into the city easily. The uniqueness of this area is that it sits adjacent to a rain forest, which creates a lush, green environment. There is a stream and several waterfalls where families from the city go as a break from city life. A castle was built many years ago and sat empty for a long time. Recently, it has been transformed into a beautiful hotel.

Tomorrow, we go to Cafayete, another wine area a few hours away. Along the way, we will be seeing some magical places.

Today will be another long drive to Tarija, Bolivia. The main issue is the almost four-hour drive through the Andes on a narrow, harrowing dirt road with one side against possible rock slides and the other side looking down at a valley that looks miles deep. This is the second time we have had to endure this. I wish it was the last but the likelihood is that there will be one more of these “experiences” before we leave Bolivia.

When we finally got to Tarija, again a four-hour drive on the same dirt roads, hanging on for dear life (that is, me). You would think that there would be a highway after all this time but there is not. About 2.5 hours in, we stopped at a high altitude winery at Ville Abecia. It is a small winery that doesn’t have “tours” as such. The owner is a elderly man with a cane who spoke only Spanish but wanted us to sample his wine. Admittingly, all the ones we tasted were delicious. He had a port, a torrantes (a red we never heard of before), and a tannat wine. We liked everything we tasted. Sadly, we couldn’t take any with us. The visit was short and sweet.

We finally made it to Tarija and began to breathe! Tomorrow will be better.