Day 4 – Santiago to San Pedro de Atacama – Nov 17, 2024

Today, we travel from Santiago to get a flight to Calama. This airport is in the Atacama Desert, a huge area in the north of Chile. People (mostly Brazilians) come here to hike, bike, swim in hot springs, camp, and see the volcanos.

The flight on Latam Airlines makes Volaris Airlines look almost first class! Jim had a window seat in row 9 while I had a seat on the aisle in row 38, the last row. Since the flight was just under two hours, no worries, right? Well, there were two bathrooms for about 200 passengers and it seemed like half the plane needed to go and bump me coming and going. I understand that the view of the desert was pretty spectacular but the last two rows of the plane had no windows. Okay, enough of the pity party!

We were picked up by a university professor who taught European History in San Pedro de Atacama, our destination for today. As we drove the 1.5 hours to San Pedro, we saw hundreds of wind turbines and thousands of solar panels in the desert. What a good idea. We passed the the Licancabur Volcano, which was amazing. It is dormant but we will be seeing it from the Bolivian side tomorrow.

We continued through the Andes Mountains to the dusty streets of San Pedro de Atacama, where almost all of the town is built of red adobe. The whole town is monochromatic. We needed to get our passports and other visa paperwork to enter Bolivia tomorrow but had difficulty finding a shop to do this. Ultimately, we got it done and found a restaurant with WiFi to eat and catch up on mail. The food was surprisingly good and twice the amount we could consume. Another Pisco Sour and an Austral Calafate beer for Jim and we were set for the rest of the day. We took the other half of our meal back to the hotel. Good thing, because we were getting picked up at 6:00 AM to head to the border and would be missing breakfast.

By 9:00, we were asleep after the long day… Tomorrow, we cross the border to Bolivia.

Day 3 – Valparaiso and Vina del Mar – Nov 16, 2024

About an hour and a half west from Santiago are the coastal towns of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar (pronounced Vinya). There were 18 people from other tours in the van from many countries. A man from Indonesia, a woman from the Netherlands, a shoe buyer from Bogota, Colombia, a Mexican woman living in San Antonio, TX, and many more. It was the UN of tours!

Half way there, we stopped at a touristy rest stop in Casablanca, where dozens of vans off-loaded passengers. The valley is known for its wines because most days it is socked in with fog that provides the moisture the vines need. Supposedly, it burns off in the afternoon but the low clouds were a bit depressing.

The rest stop was the size of a football field, with different foods, wines, jewelry (mainly lapus lazuli pieces, which is famous in this area), and a resale shop where people who didn’t realize that going to Patagonia could be very cold! It seems that people buy a heavy jacket, then return it to the shop on their way back. Several of the folks in our van were going to Patagonia afterward. They offered a tasting of the wines prevalent in this area. One is very odd in that it is made with white wine and blueberries, giving it the color of Gatorade. You don’t taste the fruit, only the wine but it is a little disconcerting to see this blue liquid.

Our guide, Loreto, was very knowledgeable and chatty. We really enjoyed her. She said that Chile is actually a part of three different areas. It is a part of Oceana, America, and Antarctica. Who knew?? Also, Chile has jurisdiction over Easter Island (Isla de Pasqua), known for its carved stone heads that have been there for centuries. No one knows exactly how they got there but there is one head in the museum here, and several in other countries. The island is over 2,000 miles away from the continent and was evacuated during the pandemic. They have to receive food, gas, almost everything, which cannot be easy.

In Chile, they say that there are only five continents, not seven as we do in the US. They are America (not North and South), Europe, Africa, Oceana, and Asia. It was quite interesting.

Once in Valparaiso, we walked all around the hilly streets to mainly view the painted murals that are everywhere. Sadly, the buildings are mainly dilapidated and most are sheathed in corregated painted metal to avoid having to repair the exterior stucco that needed constant attention.

Our next stop was Vina del Mar, just down the road from Valparaiso. This town is totally different in feeling. Filled with condominiums that overlook the sea, this is a very upscale town, where many people in Santiago have second homes, especially in the summer when the temps can reach 52C. Being by the water is heaven comparatively. Some even commute into Santiago during the week for work and then return to the coast every weekend. There are interesting restaurants and activities.

FYI, the IVA (sales tax) is 19% on everything, although it is usually included as a part of the pricing. For this reason, public medical care, museums, musical events, and many other activities are all free to the public. There is private medical care for those who do not want to wait for non-threatening services, similar to what is available in other countries.

We visited the local museum to see the Easter Island head and saw vendors selling alpaca shawls from Bolivia. They were stunning and only $10 US each but we were told that when we go to Bolivia, the same shawls will be about $1.00 each. Too bad that I have dozens of rebozos (shawls) already. I guess you can’t have too many!

We returned to Santiago and were dropped off at the mall to see about getting photos for our Bolivia visa. The shop couldn’t do black and white photos, so we will wait until we get to Calama, our next stop tomorrow. The all on a Saturday evening was unbelievable. There were thousands of people, mainly young, to spend the time visiting their friends and congregating. Obviously, it must be the place to be.

We returned to our hotel to have a “small” bite and a drink. The restaurant in our hotel is always busy, indicating that it must be well-liked by the locals. We ordered an appetizer fish and chips platter to share, thinking that it will be a little nibble. Well… When it arrived, it could have fed six people. We hardly made a dent and offered it to the staff to eat. Taking it up to our room would have been a waste, since there was no way to heat it up and no fridge. We offered it to the staff and they seemed pleased.

Tomorrow, we fly from Santiago to Calama. More adventure…

Day 2 – Maipo Valley/Concho Y Toro – Nov 15, 2024

We got up late, which is unusual for us, but since we had the morning open, we went to breakfast around 9:00 and then walked about ten minutes away to a huge mall in the lower levels of El Costanera, the tallest building in South America. The mall is five floors of a mix of department stores, a huge grocery store, and a variety of stores familiar in the US and around the world. While Jim sat in a comfy chair, I wandered around to see if there was anything worth buying. H&M and Zara were busy as usual, but otherwise, the stores weren’t too busy. Pesos saved! We did buy some apples and bananas to eat on the van for our afternoon tour.

We were picked up at 1:45 PM to go to the Concho & Toro winery. The van picked us up, along with others going to the same winery, and after one hour of picking up others and the drive, we finally got to the winery about two hours later. There was lots of traffic but Cesar, our driver, was a maniac on the roads and flew around the traffic.

We arrived to the Maipo Valley to get to the winery, a familiar name to us in Mexico, and were divided up into groups depending on which language our guide at the winery would be using. We had to wait for another 45 minutes for our English-speaking guide, so we had a quite bite in the restaurant. Our guide, Walter, has been leading tours for eight years and was very charming. Our group included a couple from the Dominican Republic who have lived in Santiago for the past 15 years, a couple from Leeds, UK, a group of five from Seoul, Korea, a couple from Tokyo, Japan, and a young man from San Francisco. This eclectic group melded well and we enjoyed our visit with them.

Our first stop was the original home of the family that started the winery with 42 hectares of land. You couldn’t find a more beautiful place, with trees from all over the world, a small lake covered in water lilies. It was a most idyllic setting. There are many grape vines close to the lake but they are really for the visitors to touch and see up close. The real vineyards are not far away, out of reach for the average tourist. They grow twelve different varieties, six white and six red grapes. The grounds are not to be believed. Many of the trees were planted in the 1800’s and provide examples of species you normally would not see together

We went to one of the covered areas to have our first wine tasting. We started with a very nice Sauvignon Blanc, moved to Cabernet Sauvignon, and finally to a Carmenere. They gave us lovely wine glasses to keep and use for the tasting. Walter took great delight in serving us. We especially liked both red wines. They were smooth and full-bodied. After the tasting, we moved to the grape plants themselves. They are not the ones that are harvested but an excellent example of how they are grown.

Our next stop was the underground area where the wines are aged. They are first put into new French oak casks, then transferred to casks that are one year old, and finally into casks that are three years old. Each cask imparts a special identity to the wine from the age of the wood. It was fascinating. Below, at four meters underground, there are casks for special wines. They are treated to a highly-chilled environment in casks that give them the aging they need.

Our last stop was in another area for a different wine tasting. We were able to sample different wines with and without cheeses and the results are significant. The first wine was a Chardonnay/Pinot Noir that paired very well with goat cheese. The second was a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah to have with a buttery cheese. Next, we had a Carmenere with a Camembert. Finally, we had a Malbec/Merlot blend to enjoy with a delicious Parmesean. The white wine is perfect with seafood or even a salad. The others were excellent with pasta or lighter foods, and finally the heartier reds should be paired with fatty meats, like beef or lamb. It was an education.

We didn’t buy any wines in the shop, although it was very tempting. We have our lovely engraved wine glass to bring home as a souvenir and a nice memory of nice folks to share this in this experience.

Tomorrow, we are off to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar on the coast, where we will be exploring a different area.

Day 1 – Santiago, Chile – Nov 14, 2024

After a long day of travel from Guadalajara on a 6:00 AM flight to Mexico City, and ultimately to Santiago arriving around 10:00 PM local time (three hours ahead of Mexico). The flights were easy and we arrived in good shape. Tomas picked us up at the Santiago airport and off we went to our hotel in a beautiful part of town.

The Park Plaza Santiago is a very nice hotel, near shops, restaurants, and lots to do. However, we were tired and ready to take a nice sleep. Breakfast in the dining room was okay, although nothing to shout about. Still, it was nice to have decents food (especially after the mediocre food on Aeromexico!).

Our guide for today, Yamina, and her driver, Mauricio, picked us up at 8:30 to begin our tour. Both of them showed their expansive knowledge of the city and made the tour very interesting. We drove around the many neighborhoods, including high end and bohemian areas. The architecture of many of the government buildings (some were formerly private properties) has a definitive French influence in the central part of the city. As we drove around, it felt as though you could be in any European capitol. With a beautiful blue sky and perfect temperatures, walking around was heaven.

The Andes are on the east side of the city, with minimal snow visible, especially considering that November is the end of spring. The mountains loom over the city, creating a border north and south, with Argentina on the other side. Santiago boasts about 8 million people, a far cry from 2 million prior to the COVID years. Compared to the rampant inflation in Argentina, Chile is calm, well run, and experiencing minimal inflation. We were told that people from Buenos Aires even come to Chile just to shop for groceries!

We enjoyed viewing the green areas, lots of flowers, and walking in the Plaza de Armas and other plazas around the government buildings. The main church on the Plaza is a monument to Catholicism, and very impressive. Surprisingly, the stained glass was rather plain while the interior was filled with gold and silver decoration. When we left, we passed an important mural featuring Gabriela Mistral, an educator and poet, earning her the honor of receiving Chile’s first Nobel prize for literature in 1945.

From there, we stopped at the Neptune Terrazza, with its beautiful fountain that gave the many pidgeons a welcome respite. There were not many tourists but almost everywhere, there were hundreds of students visiting the many sites in the city. After a drive up Cerro (Hill) Santa Lucia for a beautiful view of the city, we took the cable car up Cerro San Cristobal, two of the better known hills to see the Virgin Mary statue that is visited by hundreds (or thousands) of tourists all year around. At the top, there was an amazing view of Santiago.

The tour was over around 1:00 PM, so time for lunch. Mauricio suggested a restaurant around the corner from our hotel. Giratorio Restaurant sits at the top of a building that houses several restaurant and rotates to view every part of the city. The menu was varied and catered to an upscale clientele. We normally share an entree and found the perfect dish to order. The shrimp with gnocchi in a pesto sauce, burrata cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes was definitely a winner. It came with homemade focaccia for dipping into the pesto sauce. We also ordered a local beer, Astral, which is from Patagonia, and a Pisco Sour, a special drink that you find all over Chile. Both were a wonderful compliment to the food.

There was a pianist to serenade us as we rotated very slowly. We saw window washers scaling the tallest building in South America (yikes!) and had to hold our breath. Time to go, but we had one issue to deal with. Jim uses a travel CPAP machine at night and he forgot the humidifier that keeps him from drying his nasal passages. It kept him from having a good sleep last night. Going online, we found exactly the store we needed around the corner from the restaurant. And, fortunately, they had the humidifier he needed. What were the chances??

Tallest Building in So. America

Once back at the hotel, we both crashed. By the way, WiFi isn’t available everywhere as it is in most cities. Using Google maps to get around requires some pre-planning. I ordered an eSim but so far, it hasn’t worked. Now, I have to get the many pictures into this entry. I still haven’t figured out how to insert videos. Anyone know WordPress better than me? See you tomorrow…

Time for Another Fun Trip

On November 13, we will be flying from Mexico to Santiago, Chile to begin an almost three week wine tour through Chile and Argentina, as well as on the border of Bolivia. It is spring there and the weather should be perfect.

Truthfully, we are not wine experts but we know we will enjoy trying the various wines of each region. Starting in Santiago and ending in Mendoza, Argentina, the food and wine experience will be very special.

We end our trip with four days in Buenos Aires, something we are looking forward to enjoying. I have been remiss in posting pictures in the past because I figured most people will be bored to tears. However, I have been asked to add photos whenever I am able, so get ready!

The Pyramids and Sphinx

The pyramids originally were covered in a smooth surface, as in the closeup view of the middle pyramid. Now, the building blocks are exposed and when you compare them to the people, it is inconceivable how the blocks were brought to Giza, placed higher and higher until they reached their peak.

There is an entrance in the Great Pyramid that you can enter but given that it was over 100F, and the inside is even warmer, we opted to pass on this visit. The day before we arrived, egyptologists found a new room in this pyramid.

The iconic Sphinx is there to guard the pyramids. Again, the size is immense and must have been a feat of amazing calculations how to create this.

Cairo

The Egyptian Museum is a marvel, filled with statues, sarcophagus of past pharoahs, and a variety of items found throughout Egypt with the largest collection of Egyptian antiquities in the world. The museum is in flux as some of the treasures and mummies have been transferred to the new, modern museum adjacent to Giza and the Pyramids. But what remains is still impressive. King Tutenkhamun statues and his sarcophagus are a big draw. However, there is so much more to see. The building itself is grand and well thought-out.

Although fine hotels and restaurants are located downtown in Cairo, most Egyptians live in squalid-looking high-rise buildings that were obviously not fitted with air conditioning when built. These buildings, some of which are half demolished by the government, are everywhere in a city of over ten million people. The city has grown and now almost invades the area of the Pyramids. There is a new satellite city that started about twenty years ago, called New Cairo. It is the home to Africa’s tallest tower and Middle East’s largest cathedral. It languished for many years, but is now flourishing, with new construction of homes (even single family), golf courses, shopping centers and more, planned for more than six million residents and designed to relieve traffic and other stresses on the crumbling infrastructure in Cairo.

The Fort (or Citadel) is a medieval Islamic-era fortification. It was the seat of government and the residence of its rulers for nearly 700 years, from the 13th century. It sits atop a hill for a view of the city incase of invaders.

Truthfully, I will not miss being in Cairo. I look forward to seeing more of what Egypt has to offer.

Day 17 – Travel Day

To make our 9:30 AM flight from Amsterdam to Madrid, we got up early and proceeded to walk to the Centraal Station. It was an easy walk and I was surprised at how alive the city was at 6:00 AM. Navigating the train station is a trip but we found the right train to the airport and were off.

A lovely retired Indian gentleman was seated next to us who told his that he has already visited 35 countries, with the goal of 50 countries. He has his goal mapped out and was determined to see it through. He is from a town outside of Mombai in the south of India and was charming.

The four-hour flight went quickly and we had a couple of hours in Madrid to await our next flight. Once on the plane, we had to sit on the tarmac for about an hour. When I asked the flight attendant, he said that we missed the route window for the trans-Atlantic flight and would have to wait for another window to open up. I never heard of this before but it makes sense.

Going, we flew over New York but returning, we flew almost straight to Mexico. I got some sleep on the 12-hour flight but Jim was awake watching several movies. We arrived around 8:00 PM to a very happy dog and a housesitter who enjoyed being with her. Now, the fun part… acclimating to the time change!

Although I have noted some of the good and bad we had on the trip (mainly good), the last post, not counting the one with all the pictures, will give you an overall view of our travels this time. I write this blog to jog our memories of our travels but hope that you enjoy reading about where we go and what we do.

Day 16 – Van Gogh Museum and Rijstaffel

This is our final day in Amsterdam. We pre-booked a tour of the Van Gogh Museum, which we regret. The guide was okay but the museum itself was disappointing. It is located in Museum Square, close to the Rijksmuseum. Other than some of his early self-portraits and the famous Sunflowers, most of his best-known paintings are either in other museums or in private collections. So, no Starry Night, no Water Lilies (although there was an earlier one on exhibit). For €192, skip this. You can just get an entry ticket for much less and rent headphones for €3.95 and get the same information. FYI…

On the way to the museum, with our trusty phones being used as navigation (as was everyone!), I tripped and fell. Fortunately, there wasn’t any significant damage but I must have bruised my ribs on the left side of my chest. I didn’t feel anything at all until later that night. There isn’t much you can do about ribs anyway, so I will just grin and bear it. Walking, sitting, or most activities (including eating) are not affected, so far).

After many recommendations from friends near and far, we made a reservation at an Indonesian restaurant for their famous rijstaffel. After either a soup or small appetizer skewers of meat, the dinner is a selection of small plates of food, both meat and vegetarian, that are part of a huge dinner. We had at least ten courses, most of which were unpronounceable and/or unrecognizable. The flavors were very mixed, from sweet and sour cucumber to a barbecued something.

The best part was that we shared it with our friends from Ajijic, Bobbi and David Sherer, who landed from their cruise that morning. We planned this months ago. It was fun to catch up on their travels and ours. And, they still have weeks to go traveling all around the Mediterranean.

While on the cruise, Bobbi wasn’t feeling well, so David went to the ship restaurant and was seated with a couple. As they talked and David asked them where they are from, they said that they live in a little town in Mexico, south of Guadalajara. David played dumb and kept asking questions, without divulging that he also lives in Ajijic. He finally had to tell them and everyone laughed. What a coincidence!

It was now time to return to the hotel to pack up for our morning flight to Madrid, where we pick up our non-stop flight to Guadalajara. Only having a carry-on bag and an under seat bag, we did fret a bit about weight but so far, when we checked in at every airport, our bags were never weighed. Of course, the one place that may weigh your bag could be the one that says we are overweight. So, we pack accordingly, as if we would be weighed.

I spent the afternoon shopping at Primark, a department store that has locations throughout Europe. The one in Madrid is six stories tall with a central courtyard that fills the store with light. You can’t imagine what they have. The one in Amsterdam is only four stories tall but still full of merchandise that is so inexpensive and fun, you can’t resist.

After a fun time shopping, I decided to leave a number of items at the hotel to be replaced with the new items I purchased. I hope someone can use them. (That was in my mind before we left on the holiday.)

Tomorrow, we will walk the 20 minutes to the Centraal Train Station to go to the airport. By the way, when we arrived, we didn’t know how far we were from the hotel, so we took a taxi. Big mistake! It was €33 for the 7-minute ride. Lesson learned.

We are ready to go home…

Day 15 – Touring Outside of Amsterdam

Today, we walked to a meeting point to join a group on a bus going to Marken, Zaanse Schans, Edam, Volendam, and an area that still has windmills (although they are not functioning as they were used originally). As we drive to these towns, we go through an area in a relatively new part of what is called north Amsterdam, where once there were only farms that stretched for miles, but now have many housing options. Amsterdam, it seems, is too expensive so living just north of the city, a 10-minute train ride away, is an excellent option.

First, we stopped in Marken, a former island that is now connected via a short causeway. It is a charming town with neat, well-maintained homes and row houses. The people in this town are all Protestant for some reason, whereas the main religion throughout the Netherlands is Catholic.

We enjoyed meandering through the streets, with fewer bicycles to avoid. Next, we went to Zaanse Schans, where we visited a farm that raises mainly Jersey cattle, but also goats and sheep. The Henri Willig Cheese Farm is known for its amazing quality and variety of cheeses. The most amazing part of the visit was seeing how automated the farm is.

The cows can go in and out of the stables whenever they want, eating the various plants and grasses, then going to the milking station on their own when they need to. The pastures are not treated with chemical fertilizers or pesticides. In the barn, the floor is maintained by use of a giant iRobot that removes the manure constantly, without disturbing the cows. The Jersey breed is more productive in milk (and also has more fat and protein naturally), needs less food and produces significantly less manure. That is a good thing!

The cows also have a sensor tag around their neck that reports the amount of milk they produce when they go to the milking machines. Their stables has transparent sides and roof for more sunlight and a foot of fresh straw so the cows will be warm and comfortable. Rain water is collected and goes into troughs as drinking water, the cows can go to a large brush (like those in an automated car wash) to get a massage, which they apparently love. There is even a feeding robot so each cow can get a dose of concentrated food while they are in the milking robot (yes, there is such a thing), with a formula specifically for that cow based on the sensor on their collar.

This is definitely more information than you ever wanted to know about raising cattle for cheese-making but it was an eye-opening experience for us to see how automated this process can be.

When it comes to making the cheese, it is strictly hands-on. They have hundreds of varieties to select, from typical garlic and herb to black garlic, whisky, red or green pesto, beer, and lavender. If you are interested, they ship their cheeses worldwide. Go to www.henriwillig.com for all the information. By the way, the cheese tasting was amazing!

We then went to Edam, where this type of cheese is ubiquitous. No tasting here but a cute town. Volendam, on the sea across from Marken, was our next stop. It is a fun town where we had lunch and a stroll through the many shops. The food was delicious and the people-watching enjoyable!

Finally, we went to an almost extinct place to see the traditional windmills that used to grind grain, chocolate, and more. It had a Disney-like feel and was filled with tourists. For only 6 Euros, you can go into a windmill and climb to the top!

Back into town where we wandered across the street to have a wonderful Mediterranean dinner. All in all, it was a good day!

Day 14 – Amsterdam – Rijksmuseum and Anne Frank House

We again went to our favorite grocery store around the corner and were able to get delicious food for breakfast. We found a sunny bench and enjoyed coffee, tea, croissants and even breakfast burritos. it was very enjoyable.

Afterward, our first stop of the day was a 25 minute walk to the Rijksmuseum, an amazing venue known for its extensive collection of Rembrandt Van Rijn and Vermeer paintings. The museum was founded in 1798 and first opened in 1885. In 2013, after a ten-year renovation at a cost of €375 million, it is the most visited museum in the Netherlands  with record numbers of 2.2 million and 2.47 million visitors. It is also the largest  art museum in the country. You could literally spend days there and not see its vast collection of art.

Suffice it to say, we spent the majority of our time there seeing the Rembrandt paintings of which The Night Watch is one of his most famous paintings, as well as The Jewish Bride. His attention to detail is unrivaled.

The museum also had a current exhibition of Franz Hals paintings. He was not appreciated until later in his life because he moved away from the traditional way of depicting subjects using fine brush strokes so the paintings looked almost like a photograph. Later, his brush strokes were considered “rough,” meaning that they were visible and more like the impressionists of his time. That school of painting evolved, with one of its most famous artists, Van Gogh among others. He also painted his subjects in more realistic poses, even smiling instead of looking grim, as was the custom. We enjoyed seeing the best of both painters. The next time we are in Amsterdam, we will visit again and hope to see more.

We are becoming acquainted with the area now, especially after walking over 20,000 steps today. There are many unique shops to see, even a rubber ducky store with hundreds and hundreds of ducks, of all sizes and characters. There was a store with only rainwear and items that are rain resistant, such as hats, backpacks, and purses. Many of the popular stores are here, as well a lots of designer brands. FYI, Amsterdam gets a lot of rain, but the people who use bicycles as their main mode of transportation, are undeterred by the rain.

Speaking of bicycles, everyone rides bikes here. The bike lanes are super highways and you have to make sure to look left and right before crossing any street. That is why you see mainly fit people here, of all ages. Some are on e-bikes but most are not. So, leg power is important.

Some bikes have a large attachment on the front, either to carry their children or for shopping. Parkinga car in Amsterdam is quite expensive, around €8 per hour, so bikes are definitely the way to go. Another option is a minuscule electric car that fits one or two smallish people, but don’t bring a large purse! It will not fit! They can park parallel or perpendicular to the sidewalk. Even Amazon delivers on a bike fitted with a larger box to hold the items. Jim noticed that the bike lanes are red because of the blood of the bikers when they crash! We never saw one crash or one accident. The bikes are like silent cicadas… everywhere you look!

One interesting experience we had today was seeing a glassed enclosed garage-sized building on the sidewalk of an up-scale row of homes. It seems that if you own a home/townhouse in this neighborhood, it comes with an underground parking place. You go to the computer screen on the outside of the “garage,” put in some information, pull your car into the building once the door has opened, go out of the garage, and press the correct buttons. Then, the car goes down to a lower level while on the elevator floor. Once down, there is some kind of mechanism that takes the car to the correct parking spot. It is magic (and I am sure not a cheap addition to the purchase of one of these beautiful homes but included in the price). We spoke with a couple of car owners about this. With such limited parking options, this is a little piece of heaven.

Getting back to our day, we had hours to relax before our end of day tickets to see the Anne Frank House. When I visited Amsterdam so long ago, you could go to any of the museums or tourist destinations either for free or pay a nominal amount when you arrived. Not so now… We booked visits and excursions many weeks in advance and the cost was far from nominal. If you try to be spontaneous, you will never get into any of the museums or tours.

When we arrived at 8:30 PM, there was a large group assigned to that time. We had a preliminary overview when we went on the Jewish Walking Tour a couple of days ago but nothing prepares you to see how eight people lived in an attic for two years, trying to keep quiet during the day so the factory workers below would not hear them and give their existence away. No walks outside. No looking out of the painted-over windows to have the sun warm their faces. Relying on a few people who would smuggle in food and other necessities, this was their lives.

When they were ultimately taken away, it was on the last train from Amsterdam, only days before liberation by the Allies. Anne’s father would be the only survivor. He searched for his family, only to find that they all perished, either in the gas chambers or from typhus. It still boggles the mind and I had heard many of the stories my whole life from my mother,  a Holocaust survivor of Auschwitz.

The sun doesn’t set here until about 10:30 PM, so the walk back to our hotel is in full daylight. Another good day in Amsterdam. Logged over 26,000 steps!