Day Three, June 1 – Mt. Etna

Today, we are looking forward to going to Mt. Etna, the most active volcano in Europe. It has erupted every year, but the worst time was in 1669, when the lava covered villages all around it and even reached Catania, many kilometers away. It always emits steam and is ever-present in the landscape of eastern Sicily.

Denise, our driver and guide, took us there to get as close to the summit as we could. It is remarkable to see hundreds of hikers, climbers, runners, and ordinary folk work their way up the mountain. Most people take the cable car up to the 3,000 meter level, then go on a four-wheel drive bus another 500 meters. From there, well above the tree line, the landscape looks like the moon, with no vegetation, and patches of ash-covered snow. It isn’t horribly cold, but very windy. Even if you know you will be climbing Mt. Etna, visitors rarely bring heavy jackets or hats, so they can rent all they need, including shoes and socks, at the cable car entrance.

The other diehards who run marathons on the side of the mountain, have to navigate running up and down on ash, which is treacherous. Supposedly, people even “ski” down the ash, which is very steep. The climbers wear helmets, just in case they fall, and go in groups that tied to one another. The bikers ride up the switchback roads to the base. This is all above my pay grade.

We took the cable car to the next level, then the bus to the highest point. From there, we had to walk uphill about a kilometer or two to the actual summit. The line of humanity doing this was endless and not easy. We started the walk, but decided that although we are in relatively good shape, this was not for us. The other couple traveling with us on this tour did climb the last leg and Caroline, in particular, regretted it. Jim and I took the bus down to the coffee shop and waited for them to return. It was the smartest thing to do.

Just going up to the 3,000 meter level (about 11,000 feet) was something we will not easily forget. Now, it was time to return to the bottom to go on our Etna wine-tasting at a local winery. It has been said that the soil around Mt. Etna is full of minerals and other nutrients for the wine grapes, giving the wines a unique, complex, flavor. The winery, Barron Villagrande, is situated just outside of Taormina and is a beautiful property. They served us, as well as many other visitors, a beautiful lunch, paired with different wines.

We started with a tomato bruschetta, which had the tastiest tomatoes you have ever had. The bruschetta bread was crusty and homemade, making this simple first course very special. It was served with a Etna Rossata, or rose. The next course was a tiny ground beef tartar sandwich, topped with a locally grown hazelnut, and accompanied by a light, fruity white wine. Our next course was a chickpea pie, topped with sauteed chickory on a bit of tomato paste and a bread cracker. This was served with an Etna Bianco. The spinach ravioli that followed was filled with cheese and served on a red wine reduction, with an Etna Rosso.

When you thought you couldn’t eat any more, we were served incredible locally grown mushrooms with thinly sliced tuna belly and a yellow tomato sauce. This came with a second red wine that was more full-bodied red wine. And, finally, we had a unique dessert of a peppered chocolate mousse on a chocolate biscuit with red fruits. This was served with a delicious Malbec. We were totally satiated but still enjoyed seeing the wine casks made of chestnut wood in the wine cellar. Chestnuts are grown everywhere in this part of Sicily, and the wood gives the wines a uniqueness to make the wines very special.

Well, that was our day. We passed on dinner and instead went to the restaurant in the hotel and had a beer to celebrate our day. Tomorrow, we leave Taormina and head to Noto, Marzamemi, and finally to Syracusa for a couple of days.

Day Two – Taormina and Beyond

We met Giovanni at the Messina Arch again and walked to the Greek Theatre not far from our hotel. It was built in the1400’s, but after WWII, parts of it were rebuilt in 1955. It overlooks the valley, and the Ionian Sea, crowned by Mt. Etna. It was used for Greek dramas and  Roman gladiators. Now, it hosts many cultural events including concerts, opera and ballet.

Afterwards, we took a short walk to see a small amphitheater, Odeon, uncovered in the middle of town. Two years ago, my daughter and I ate at a small restaurant overlooking the theatre. It was a unique juxtaposition of old and current times.

While Giovanni retrieved the van we were using for the rest of the day, we enjoyed a visit to the public gardens. The garden was left to the town by an English woman to honor her love of the city. The trees and flowers were very similar to those we have in Mexico, giving us a comfortable feeling of home.

You never know what you will see as you meander around the streets of Taormina. We were delighted to see a couple going to the church for their wedding. They arrived in a VW bug convertible and we were told that there are many weddings per day. Everywhere you look, the vista is filled with flowering bougainvillea, charming alleys and small restaurants.

It was now time to take the many hairpin turns, past the beach area, on to the town of Forza d’Agro to start our Mafia/Godfather tour. While Taormina became famous from the second season of The White Lotus, the third Godfather movie was filmed in Sicily, and more specifically, in the small towns near Taormina, including Forza d’Agro. The churches were the stars of the film, looking much larger than they actually are. 

It was time to take a break and have lunch at a small, charming restaurant. We started with a tomato bruschetta, followed by fresh pasta called “norma,” topped with dried and baked ricotta cheese in a fresh tomato-eggplant sauce. The brown cheese looked like mushrooms, but it was the ricotta. Finally, we enjoyed a delicious cannoli filled with a sweet cream.

Time to move on to the Santa Lucia church to see another location from the Godfather movie. The church was simple and mainly unadorned, but in a side room, they had a repeating video of the segment filmed in the church. 

As we walked up to the church, there were remnants of an old synagogue, with a small plaque in the stone road just outside honoring Anne Frank. It was quite odd, I thought. In Amsterdam, plaques of those who died in the concentration camps, were everywhere. I didn’t expect this in Sicily. There also was evidence of an old mikveh or ritual bath where the synagogue supposedly stood.

Time to return to the hotel to rest a bit before heading out for a light dinner, hopefully pizza and a caprese salad. We said goodbye to Giovanni and will be going with Denice, our next guide, to go up Mt. Etna to see the volcano first-hand.

Arriving in Taormina, Sicily

After a grueling day and a half getting to Sicily, we went to our hotel, the same one I stayed in two years ago. Taormina is about 40 minutes from the Catania Airport. It was dark when we arrived, so Jim couldn’t see the scenery awaiting him. We managed to go to the hotel restaurant for a sandwich (really yummy) and a beer. The kitchen closed at 10:30, so eating more at that hour would have not worked.

Jim crashed immediately, while I stayed awake for hours. Italy is eight hours later than Ajijic, so sleeping in the middle of the day wasn’t easy for me. Ultimately, I got about five hours of sleep and welcomed a lovely shower and a delicious breakfast this morning.

We hung around our room to allow more de-compressing and even had a video call with Ajijic friends who are also in Sicily. They were going to join us for our cooking class starting on June 8, but it was full. Instead, they are going a week earlier, starting June 1. Once they get to the villa for the six-day class, we will connect again to get their impression of the location.

We started our tour at 6:00 PM today with a food frenzy! I will endeavor to upload lots of photos of Taormina. More challenges!

We met Giovanni, along with a couple from Los Angeles, to begin our evening tour. Giovanni lives in Catania and has worked as a tour guide for many years. He is charming and very sweet. The other couple, Caroline and Dennis are very nice and with only the four of us, the tour will be great fun.

Our first stop was a nearby restaurant, Pirandello 2.0, where we were wined and dined starting with a delicious glass of Prosecco, and then a very good white wine. We enjoyed crusty bread with an excellent olive oil for dipping. We started with a mini appetizer of arancino (a fried rice ball that can have a filling of cheese or ragú), a brioche, and a savory chip with a pistachio cream.

This was followed by a wonderful marinated fresh tuna and a fresh grouper appetizer to enjoy with the sparkling wine. Next was sautéed octopus on a bed of potato puree and breaded and fried calamari (squid) (which I tasted but passed on). Giovanni was very knowledgeable about the food and the wines. The white wine was an Etna Bianco and was excellent. We were also serenaded by lovely music with songs that were very familiar. Everyone sang Volare with them.

Our next stop was another restaurant, Porto Messina, (which was where my daughter and I had an amazing cooking class two years ago), where we had two red wines, an Etna Rossi and a Luna Nero D’Avola. The first wine was a light, flavorful red, while the second was a full-bodied red, matched with the food we were eating. At 7:30, the restaurants were full and lively.

We were served a variety of breads, along with a pickled onion and a roasted red pepper spread. Next, we had an eggplant caponata, two local cheeses and a small serving of eggplant Parmesan. All the portions were small but satisfying. Dennis and Caroline, our tour mates, were fun and we enjoyed getting to know them.

Finally, our last stop was a pastry shop where we tasted a sampling of an almond wine, a moscato wine, and limoncello. We had a small canolli, a pistachio-filled cream puff-like treat, and another nut-filled treat. My head was reeling from all the alcohol because I don’t drink very much. Still, it was a treat to try all of these unique flavors.

We returned to our hotel to relax and enjoy a quiet rest of the evening. Tomorrow, we begin at 9:30 with Giovanni to see the Greek ruins, visit a couple of interesting towns and do the Godfather Mafia tour! As a group of four people, this is as close to a private tour as one can get!

We made it to Rome

The flight through Mexico City was uneventful. Eleven hours later, we arrived in Rome. The airport is a shopper’s paradise. The brands and number of shops is mind-boggling. If I have to (haha), I may shop and see if I can squeeze it into my carry-on bag.

I sent a couple of videos and a photo of the amazing performance at the public piano with not only students from Belgium on an Italian holiday, but many other travelers enjoying their enthusiasm and singing along, including me!

Our flight to Catania, Sicily leaves soon, where we will have a good night’s sleep and almost a full day to explore Taormina (made famous from Season 2 of The White Lotus). We start our tour tomorrow with a dinner to meet the others in our group of eight.

Sorry that I haven’t mastered the idiosyncrasies of enlarging the print. Obviously, WordPress has a mind of its own on my iPad! I am just grateful that I didn’t have to bring my laptop!

Until tomorrow…

The day has been saved!

Not to be overly dramatic, I am OVER THE MOON! I have been trying to use my iPad Mini to write future entries rather than taking my laptop, and it FINALLY worked! I was just about to give up. Many YouTube videos later, which were useless, somehow I figured it out. I even contacted my tech guru and she was going to walk me through it later today, just in the knick of time before we leave tomorrow for Italy. I guess this old brain is still working! There is nothing more to report for now but I thought I would share my triumph. I will write soon.

Almost ready to leave on our next adventure…

The time has flown by and we are excited to be embarking on another grand trip.

In the meantime, we went to Baja California Sur for a week in May to visit Denver friends (for over 40 years) who have a home in San Jose del Cabo for a few days with mutual friends who live in Ajijic. I worked with the husband of the couple here about 45 years ago and lo and behold, they live 10 minutes from us. In any case, we had three fun days with our Denver friends before Jim and I drove to a small town north of Cabo San Lucas, Los Cerritos, to meet my son and his family. It is a well-known surfing town on the Pacific with dusty dirt roads. It could have been plucked from old hippy days (surprise!).

Judd and his wife, Elizabeth, along with my two granddaughters, Arlo and Sanelle, frolicked in the water and everyone, except us and Elizabeth got to surf or boogie board. The water was about 65F, which is waaaay to cold for my tender toes. Good thing they had wet suits! It was a short but fun visit with them.

We leave for Italy on May 28, but Jim is taking a few days to go to the Denver area to celebrate the high school graduation of his youngest grandson and his granddaughter, who graduated from Colorado State University last December. Going to Colorado in the winter was not a big draw, so he will enjoy celebrating with them this weekend. After a one day turnaround, we will leave for Rome, via Mexico City, and then on to Sicily for a week, starting in Catania and ending in Palermo. This is a similar trip I took with my daughter two years ago that Jim didn’t get to go. We are using the same tour company and we will be traveling with a group of no more than 8 others. That is the ideal number of people!

From Sicily, we have a short break and will go to the Amalfi Coast, where I have not been before but Jim has visited. Then, on to a villa between Rome and Naples for a week-long cooking class. This will also be with a small group, where we shop together, plan meals together, cook together, and, of course, eat together. We just hope that they will be a fun group!

And, finally, we will fly from Rome to Brindisi for an eight-day self-drive tour of Puglia, in the heel of the boot of Italy. The hotels are booked by the tour company, as well as the car with all the insurance needed. We, then, drive to all the towns in the area, enjoying visits to Lecce, Bari, and more, depending on how we feel. We also stay in an Alberollo trulli (look it up), rather than just driving past them.

I was hoping to write about all of this on my iPad Mini but it is being very cranky and won’t let me into the blog site. I may have to take my MacBook Air instead, which I was hoping to avoid. Maybe between now and next Wednesday, I will figure this out and write often with my little device. I think that WordPress is the problem, not my mini!

I will send an email or WhatsApp to let you know that there is a new entry on happyhelena.com. When you have a few minutes, check it out. It is more for me, than for you guys, because I review what I have written and marvel at the details of where we have been without having to rack my steadily shrinking brain!

I hope you enjoy it…

Upcoming Travel in 2025

We enjoy traveling while we can, because there may come a day when it may not be possible. That will be a sad day…

Coming up soon, we have a short trip in April 2025 to Baja Sur to visit Denver friends who have a home near San Jose del Cabo for a few days. Then, we go to a beachside town north of Cabo san Lucas to spend time with my son, daughter in law and their wonderful family for spring break. We are excited to have the opportunity to go there, even if only for a week.

Coming next is a trip to Italy. Fortunately, flying from Guadalajara, Mexico to Europe has become easier, with excellent flights directly to Madrid or through Mexico City to Rome. We do all the planning and booking because we keep changing our minds about various aspects of our trips. Also, there are some websites that offer unique tours and adventures that most travel agents may not know.

One of our favorite sites is Tourradar.com. They are like the Expedia of tours, working with tour companies that most of us have never heard of. And, because we do not like traveling with a herd of 30 or 40 people, we are almost always able to find a tour for 8-15 people, allowing us to enjoy the company of a smaller group.

Why take a tour? In the past, we traveled by the seat of our pants, flying somewhere, booking hotels, researching the places to visit, etc. The first time I traveled in Europe with my college roommate, we took “Europe on $5 a Day,” and tore out the pages of places we visited as we traveled. The book was about 400 pages long and too heavy to lug around for a ten week trip without removing pages. It was very helpful but that was in 1969 and, as a college graduate, hopping on and off trains (using a $200 Eurail pass for two months) and staying at youth hostels or out of the way hotels in a four-story walkup was an adventure. As a “mature” adult, that would be more work and discomfort than we are willing to endure.

We have always said that we are not cruise people, sharing a voyage with thousands of others, waddling from meal to meal. However, this fall, we are embarking on two cruises, so never say never… I will talk about that trip later.

Our next big trip starts at the end of May for about three weeks. That is usually our limit but when we travel a far distance, we may extend the time to one month. On this trip, we will concentrate on seeing southern Italy.

Although we have visited many parts of Italy over the years, mostly separately, this time we will enjoy areas we have not explored extensively. This trip includes Sicily, the Amalfi coast, a six-day cooking class in a villa between Rome and Naples, and a self-drive trip in Pulgia. More information will follow with the specifics of where we are going. And, all this with only a carry-on bag! We love not being burdened with big bags and checked luggage.

By the way, I found a lightweight, small Bluetooth keyboard and mouse to use with my iPad Mini. I am hoping it will be a game-changer when writing updates along the way. Another great item to have is a mobile hotspot to have WiFi wherever we go. You buy the small device online, purchase the MB you will need through your mobile phone, and then you have access to the internet for your trip. It provides amazing freedom. If you need to purchase more MB, no problem. These are some travel tips we have learned over the years.

The Pyramids and Sphinx

The pyramids originally were covered in a smooth surface, as in the closeup view of the middle pyramid. Now, the building blocks are exposed and when you compare them to the people, it is inconceivable how the blocks were brought to Giza, placed higher and higher until they reached their peak.

There is an entrance in the Great Pyramid that you can enter but given that it was over 100F, and the inside is even warmer, we opted to pass on this visit. The day before we arrived, egyptologists found a new room in this pyramid.

The iconic Sphinx is there to guard the pyramids. Again, the size is immense and must have been a feat of amazing calculations how to create this.

Cairo

The Egyptian Museum is a marvel, filled with statues, sarcophagus of past pharoahs, and a variety of items found throughout Egypt with the largest collection of Egyptian antiquities in the world. The museum is in flux as some of the treasures and mummies have been transferred to the new, modern museum adjacent to Giza and the Pyramids. But what remains is still impressive. King Tutenkhamun statues and his sarcophagus are a big draw. However, there is so much more to see. The building itself is grand and well thought-out.

Although fine hotels and restaurants are located downtown in Cairo, most Egyptians live in squalid-looking high-rise buildings that were obviously not fitted with air conditioning when built. These buildings, some of which are half demolished by the government, are everywhere in a city of over ten million people. The city has grown and now almost invades the area of the Pyramids. There is a new satellite city that started about twenty years ago, called New Cairo. It is the home to Africa’s tallest tower and Middle East’s largest cathedral. It languished for many years, but is now flourishing, with new construction of homes (even single family), golf courses, shopping centers and more, planned for more than six million residents and designed to relieve traffic and other stresses on the crumbling infrastructure in Cairo.

The Fort (or Citadel) is a medieval Islamic-era fortification. It was the seat of government and the residence of its rulers for nearly 700 years, from the 13th century. It sits atop a hill for a view of the city incase of invaders.

Truthfully, I will not miss being in Cairo. I look forward to seeing more of what Egypt has to offer.

Day 17 – Travel Day

To make our 9:30 AM flight from Amsterdam to Madrid, we got up early and proceeded to walk to the Centraal Station. It was an easy walk and I was surprised at how alive the city was at 6:00 AM. Navigating the train station is a trip but we found the right train to the airport and were off.

A lovely retired Indian gentleman was seated next to us who told his that he has already visited 35 countries, with the goal of 50 countries. He has his goal mapped out and was determined to see it through. He is from a town outside of Mombai in the south of India and was charming.

The four-hour flight went quickly and we had a couple of hours in Madrid to await our next flight. Once on the plane, we had to sit on the tarmac for about an hour. When I asked the flight attendant, he said that we missed the route window for the trans-Atlantic flight and would have to wait for another window to open up. I never heard of this before but it makes sense.

Going, we flew over New York but returning, we flew almost straight to Mexico. I got some sleep on the 12-hour flight but Jim was awake watching several movies. We arrived around 8:00 PM to a very happy dog and a housesitter who enjoyed being with her. Now, the fun part… acclimating to the time change!

Although I have noted some of the good and bad we had on the trip (mainly good), the last post, not counting the one with all the pictures, will give you an overall view of our travels this time. I write this blog to jog our memories of our travels but hope that you enjoy reading about where we go and what we do.

Day 16 – Van Gogh Museum and Rijstaffel

This is our final day in Amsterdam. We pre-booked a tour of the Van Gogh Museum, which we regret. The guide was okay but the museum itself was disappointing. It is located in Museum Square, close to the Rijksmuseum. Other than some of his early self-portraits and the famous Sunflowers, most of his best-known paintings are either in other museums or in private collections. So, no Starry Night, no Water Lilies (although there was an earlier one on exhibit). For €192, skip this. You can just get an entry ticket for much less and rent headphones for €3.95 and get the same information. FYI…

On the way to the museum, with our trusty phones being used as navigation (as was everyone!), I tripped and fell. Fortunately, there wasn’t any significant damage but I must have bruised my ribs on the left side of my chest. I didn’t feel anything at all until later that night. There isn’t much you can do about ribs anyway, so I will just grin and bear it. Walking, sitting, or most activities (including eating) are not affected, so far).

After many recommendations from friends near and far, we made a reservation at an Indonesian restaurant for their famous rijstaffel. After either a soup or small appetizer skewers of meat, the dinner is a selection of small plates of food, both meat and vegetarian, that are part of a huge dinner. We had at least ten courses, most of which were unpronounceable and/or unrecognizable. The flavors were very mixed, from sweet and sour cucumber to a barbecued something.

The best part was that we shared it with our friends from Ajijic, Bobbi and David Sherer, who landed from their cruise that morning. We planned this months ago. It was fun to catch up on their travels and ours. And, they still have weeks to go traveling all around the Mediterranean.

While on the cruise, Bobbi wasn’t feeling well, so David went to the ship restaurant and was seated with a couple. As they talked and David asked them where they are from, they said that they live in a little town in Mexico, south of Guadalajara. David played dumb and kept asking questions, without divulging that he also lives in Ajijic. He finally had to tell them and everyone laughed. What a coincidence!

It was now time to return to the hotel to pack up for our morning flight to Madrid, where we pick up our non-stop flight to Guadalajara. Only having a carry-on bag and an under seat bag, we did fret a bit about weight but so far, when we checked in at every airport, our bags were never weighed. Of course, the one place that may weigh your bag could be the one that says we are overweight. So, we pack accordingly, as if we would be weighed.

I spent the afternoon shopping at Primark, a department store that has locations throughout Europe. The one in Madrid is six stories tall with a central courtyard that fills the store with light. You can’t imagine what they have. The one in Amsterdam is only four stories tall but still full of merchandise that is so inexpensive and fun, you can’t resist.

After a fun time shopping, I decided to leave a number of items at the hotel to be replaced with the new items I purchased. I hope someone can use them. (That was in my mind before we left on the holiday.)

Tomorrow, we will walk the 20 minutes to the Centraal Train Station to go to the airport. By the way, when we arrived, we didn’t know how far we were from the hotel, so we took a taxi. Big mistake! It was €33 for the 7-minute ride. Lesson learned.

We are ready to go home…