Today, we are looking forward to going to Mt. Etna, the most active volcano in Europe. It has erupted every year, but the worst time was in 1669, when the lava covered villages all around it and even reached Catania, many kilometers away. It always emits steam and is ever-present in the landscape of eastern Sicily.
Denise, our driver and guide, took us there to get as close to the summit as we could. It is remarkable to see hundreds of hikers, climbers, runners, and ordinary folk work their way up the mountain. Most people take the cable car up to the 3,000 meter level, then go on a four-wheel drive bus another 500 meters. From there, well above the tree line, the landscape looks like the moon, with no vegetation, and patches of ash-covered snow. It isn’t horribly cold, but very windy. Even if you know you will be climbing Mt. Etna, visitors rarely bring heavy jackets or hats, so they can rent all they need, including shoes and socks, at the cable car entrance.
The other diehards who run marathons on the side of the mountain, have to navigate running up and down on ash, which is treacherous. Supposedly, people even “ski” down the ash, which is very steep. The climbers wear helmets, just in case they fall, and go in groups that tied to one another. The bikers ride up the switchback roads to the base. This is all above my pay grade.
We took the cable car to the next level, then the bus to the highest point. From there, we had to walk uphill about a kilometer or two to the actual summit. The line of humanity doing this was endless and not easy. We started the walk, but decided that although we are in relatively good shape, this was not for us. The other couple traveling with us on this tour did climb the last leg and Caroline, in particular, regretted it. Jim and I took the bus down to the coffee shop and waited for them to return. It was the smartest thing to do.
Just going up to the 3,000 meter level (about 11,000 feet) was something we will not easily forget. Now, it was time to return to the bottom to go on our Etna wine-tasting at a local winery. It has been said that the soil around Mt. Etna is full of minerals and other nutrients for the wine grapes, giving the wines a unique, complex, flavor. The winery, Barron Villagrande, is situated just outside of Taormina and is a beautiful property. They served us, as well as many other visitors, a beautiful lunch, paired with different wines.
We started with a tomato bruschetta, which had the tastiest tomatoes you have ever had. The bruschetta bread was crusty and homemade, making this simple first course very special. It was served with a Etna Rossata, or rose. The next course was a tiny ground beef tartar sandwich, topped with a locally grown hazelnut, and accompanied by a light, fruity white wine. Our next course was a chickpea pie, topped with sauteed chickory on a bit of tomato paste and a bread cracker. This was served with an Etna Bianco. The spinach ravioli that followed was filled with cheese and served on a red wine reduction, with an Etna Rosso.
When you thought you couldn’t eat any more, we were served incredible locally grown mushrooms with thinly sliced tuna belly and a yellow tomato sauce. This came with a second red wine that was more full-bodied red wine. And, finally, we had a unique dessert of a peppered chocolate mousse on a chocolate biscuit with red fruits. This was served with a delicious Malbec. We were totally satiated but still enjoyed seeing the wine casks made of chestnut wood in the wine cellar. Chestnuts are grown everywhere in this part of Sicily, and the wood gives the wines a uniqueness to make the wines very special.
Well, that was our day. We passed on dinner and instead went to the restaurant in the hotel and had a beer to celebrate our day. Tomorrow, we leave Taormina and head to Noto, Marzamemi, and finally to Syracusa for a couple of days.